Lakeland's Western Secrets, The Lake District (Tour 4) - The Good Guide to Travel Itineraries in Britain


UK	/	US


UK	/	US


Tour 4 - LAKELAND'S WESTERN SECRETS Separated from central Lakeland by formidable mountain ranges, Cumbria's western fringe is much less visited by tourists. It has some delectable scenery, much quieter roads, and very enjoyable places to visit. Prices in this part compare very favourably with the central Lakes, and the drive over from Ambleside is one of the most scenic routes in Britain.

	Ravenglass is a small sleepy port with a pretty sailing harbour by the well sheltered Esk estuary; in summer a local fishing boat sells freshly caught fish on the shore. It's the terminus for the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway: England's oldest narrow-gauge steam trains, lovingly preserved, with open carriages chugging up seven miles of unspoilt valley to Dalegarth; admirers say it's the most beautiful train journey in England. Cafes each end, and a small museum at Ravenglass. Shop, disabled access (with notice); cl most wkdys Dec-mid Feb, but best to phone for train times and dates; (01229) 717171; £6.30 return. Good 3-hr summer walk back from Boot (walks booklets from stations). Off the A595 just north of Ravenglass (by a Ratty Line station) is a well restored working Watermill, with Victorian machinery, and flour for sale. Cl Nov-Mar (exc wknds); (01229) 717232; £1.60. They also do good value B&B. The so-called Walls Castle just south of the village is actually a Roman bath house; its walls stand taller than any other building of its age so far north.

	An optional detour keeping north on the A595 past the mill brings you in just over a mile (just south of Holmrook) to a side road towards Santon Bridge; turn right on to this road, forking left after 1 1/2 miles. In the pretty village of Santon Bridge (where the Bridge Inn is a useful stop), turn left and right for the road into Wasdale. This brings you to Wast Water, the most isolated of all the major lakes. This dramatic stretch of water is England's deepest lake (258 feet), yet stands beneath Scafell Pike and Sca Fell, England's tallest mountains (3206 feet and 3162 feet respectively). Bounded by these and other windswept fells with screes plunging gauntly into its depths, it has an almost harsh beauty. Wasdale Head has little more than the Wasdale Head Inn, a long-standing climbers' haunt; some of the many who have perished on the fells are buried in the yew-surrounded churchyard of the tiny church. Allow at least an hour there and back for this detour, even with clear roads and no stops.

	Back on the A595, a mile SE of Ravenglass is Muncaster Castle, Gardens & Owl Centre. The same family have lived in this grand old house since 1208 - and will continue to do so as long as a magical glass drinking bowl remains intact. Extended over the centuries (esp 19th) from its original tower, its elegant rooms have rich furnishings and decor, inc fine Elizabethan furniture and embroidery. Entertaining Walkman tour, and glorious Esk and mountain views from the terrace. The lovely 77-acre grounds are particularly rich in species rhododendrons, and also have unusual trees, nature trails, adventure play area, lots of rescued birds of prey, and a new owl centre with closed-circuit TV of nesting owls, along with talks and flying displays every afternoon at 2.30 (Apr-Oct), weather permitting. The house is being fully renovated and a new playground has been added. Meals, snacks, shop and plant centre, good disabled access; house open pm daily (exc Sat), garden and owl centre open all year; (01229) 717614; £5.20, just garden and owl centre £3.50. The fell above has good views. In Broad Oak, just over two miles south of the Castle, turn left on to the high fell road over Corney Fell, forking left in 1 1/2 miles, and left again after another 4 1/4 miles. This high road gives sweeping views of the coast before dropping down into the wooded valley to meet the A595 at Duddon Bridge. 100 yards before you reach the A595, look out for the pair of gates by a bridleway signpost on the right; just beyond are the impressive remains of Duddon Furnace, formerly one of eight local charcoal-fuelled furnaces in operation, and in use from 1736 to 1867. Turn left on to the A595, to Broughton In Furness. This tranquil southern gateway to Lakeland has streets lined with colour-washed cottages, and a spacious former market square. It's a pleasantly unpretentious place, wavering in character between a large village and a small town.

	Backtracking on the A595, turn right before the bridge in Duddon Bridge, signposted Ulpha. This back road takes you into the Duddon Valley - also known as Dunnerdale. It's an enclosed and twisting route, with remote farmsteads and simple hamlets on the way, and some delicious scenery around Ulpha and Seathwaite - where the Newfield Inn is a good refreshment stop. Continuing up past Seathwaite, you come to a junction with the Ambleside--Eskdale mountain road. Turn left at the junction, over the Hardknott Pass. At the top of the Pass, the Isle of Man rears into view across the sea, and in just under two miles from the junction are the easily missed remains of Hardknott Roman Fort,where the Romans kept watch over Eskdale. Look out for something resembling a section of dry-stone wall on the right of the road, just before it drops steeply westwards. A few signs indicate the commandant's house, bath house etc. Although there's not a huge amount to see, it's fairly well preserved and has been quite interestingly restored. But it's most notable for its staggering lonely position high in the mountains, with magnificent views. 1 in 3 road signs warn what's to follow; in wintry conditions the pass may be closed completely. The Woolpack Inn at Bleabeck at the foot of the descent is good value.

	Below lies Eskdale, a lovely dale favoured by its relative remoteness, but with a scattering of decent pubs, and manmade and natural sights. Boot lies near the Dalegarth terminus of the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway. Dalegarth Falls are lovely), and close by is Stanley Ghyll Force, another waterfall high in a ravine with a dizzying rock platform above it. Boot's single street ending by the restored Eskdale Watermill. There are guided tours of this attractively set 16th-c working two-wheeled mill, with a picnic area nr woodland waterfalls. Snacks, shop; cl Mon (exc bank hols), all Oct-Mar; (019467) 23335; £1.25. The nearby Burnmoor Inn, very well placed for walkers, has extremely good value food; the Bower House and King George IV further down Eskdale at Eskdale Green are also good. Linking with Hardknott Pass is an optional route into this circuit, to or from Ambleside. From Ambleside, follow the A593 Coniston road, turning right on to the B5343 at Skelwith Bridge to enter Langdale. In 1 1/4 miles you pass the delightful village of Elterwater with its beautifully sited inn the Britannia. Continue along magnificently scenic Langdale, beneath the formidable crags of the Langdale Pikes, a magnet for fell walkers; evidence of a stone-age axe "factory" litters the slopes. 11 miles after the start of the B5343, turn sharp right at the junction, for the steep climb up to the Wrynose Pass. This is the eastern end of the exciting route into Eskdale, which beyond the junction with the Duddon Valley road, continues along the Hardknott Pass. The drive up here is not for the faint-hearted - it's very steep and twisting, through these two daunting passes, but the scenery makes it worthwhile. This rugged road is second to none in the Lakes as a way of experiencing the fells from a car window.

	Recommended places to stay in this area: Eskdale Bower House, Eskdale Green, Holmbrook CA19 1TD (019467) 23244 £64, plus weekend breaks; 24 comfortable rms, some in annex. Relaxed and pleasantly isolated old stone inn with nicely tended sheltered garden, lounge bar with log fire and a comfortable separate one with sofas and easy chairs, several bar rooms, popular good value food inc wonderful puddings, no smoking restaurant, and friendly staff; disabled access. Coast Queens, Main St, St Bees CA27 0DE (01946) 822287 £45; 15 rms. Set in an attractive village with marvellous beach, this 17th-c hotel has two bars with real ales and over 100 whiskies, beams and log fires, generous helpings of good food in dining room or no smoking conservatory, a garden with fine views, and friendly staff. Wasdale Wasdale Head Inn, Wasdale Head, Seascale CA20 1EX (019467) 26229 £78; 9 simple but warmly comfortable pine-clad rms. Old flagstoned and gabled walkers' and climbers' inn in magnificent setting surrounded by steep fells, with civilised day rooms, popular home cooking for 7.30 pm dinner, good wine list, huge breakfasts, and cheerfully busy public bar; s/c cottages; disabled access. Langdale* Britannia Inn, Elterwater, Ambleside LA22 9HP (015394) 37210 £70, plus winter breaks; 13 rms, most with shower, some in quiet annexe opp. Simple charmingly traditional pub in fine surroundings opp village green, happy friendly atmosphere, hearty home cooking inc superb breakfast, comfortable no smoking lounge and bustling bar, real ales; fine walks; cl 25 Dec, pm 26 Dec; well behaved dogs allowed. Old Dungeon Ghyll, Great Langdale, Ambleside LA22 9JY (015394) 37272 £66, plus special breaks; 15 rms, some with shared bthrm. Friendly, simple and cosy walkers' and climbers' inn dramatically surrounded by fells, wonderful views and terrific walks; cosy residents' lounge and popular food - best to book for dinner if not a resident; cl 3 days over Christmas. Three Shires, Little Langdale, Ambleside LA22 9NZ (015394) 37215 £72, plus special breaks; 10 rms. Family-run stonebuilt country inn with beautiful views, comfortably old-fashioned residents' part, separate walkers' bar with real ales, decent food, and pretty gardens; cl Jan. Overview* Tour 1 - Wordsworth's Lake District Tour 2 - The Northern Lakes Tour 3 - Beatrix Potter Country Tour 4 - Lakeland's Western Secrets