The Northern Lakes, The Lake District (Tour 2) - The Good Guide to Travel Itineraries in Britain


UK	/	US


UK	/	US


Tour 2 - THE NORTHERN LAKES Derwent Water is another of Lakeland's gems, with lots of interesting places to visit in Keswick, and a great scenic drive below formidable peaks through Borrowdale and back over high passes.

	Keswick is the area's focus, and the place to start. This grey-stone Victorian town within sight of lofty Skiddaw has lots going on for all ages. It's the tourist centre of the northern Lakes, with lots of Victorian villas (many of them now guest houses and small hotels) outside quite a traditional centre, with small cobbled closes running off the main streets. It's full of breeches, boots and backpacks in high season, with good outdoor equipment shops, and is a routine stop on coach tours. The Dog & Gun and older-fashioned George Hotel are very popular for lunch, with the Pheasant out towards Crosthwaite also good. Lakeside Tea Gardens (Lake Rd) have home baking, lots for children, pleasant modern furniture and crockery inside and in garden with trees and chaffinches; cl about 5 pm. George Fisher (Borrowdale Rd) is a good big outdoors shop. In Keswick, we recommend these places to visit: Cars Of The Stars (Standish St) Unusual collection of cars from film and TV dating back to Laurel & Hardy's Model T Ford, taking in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang, the Batmobile and cars used by James Bond and Postman Pat along the way. Shop, disabled access; cl Jan and part of Feb; (017687) 73757; £3. Pencil and Teapot Museums Pencils and collectable teapots are both made in Keswick; the museum alongside the Derwent pencil factory (Southey Works) is surprisingly interesting, with some unexpected exhibits (shop, disabled access; cl 25-26 Dec, 1 Jan; £2), while the only shape you won't see among the often ludicrous examples at the Teapottery (Central Car Park Rd) is the traditional one we all have in our kitchens (shop, some disabled access; cl 25/26 Dec, 1 Jan; free). Keswick Museum (Fitzpark, Station Rd) Thoroughly traditional; the Poets Corner stands out. Shop, disabled access; cl Nov-Easter; (017687) 73263; £1.

	Keswick's popularity has grown largely out of the beauty of Derwent Water alongside it. Amazingly diverse in moods, with views that never quite look the same from one day to the next, Derwent Water wavers charmingly between highland and lowland in flavour, and all its inlets and little islets make it a pleasant place for pottering about in boats (as well as for bankside strolls). It has gorgeous lakeside scenery, romantic little islets, ancient woodland, a variety of mountain backdrops - glorious shimmering reflections on still days. You can hire rowing boats and launches in Keswick (not Nov-Easter), from around £5 per hour. Regular launches run all year from Keswick to half a dozen points around the lake. From the A5271 towards Keswick's west end, take the B5289 Borrowdale road. This soon comes down to the lake shore. Just south of the town is a car park for Friar's Crag, where a short and easy walk up gives exquisite views of the lake. This was much praised by Ruskin, who rated it one of Europe's top three prospects. If you're in an energetic mood, more vistas unfold as you walk up to Castlehead Wood - a modest height, but on a clear day the distant Scottish peak of Criffel is in sight across the Solway Firth. Less than a mile further south on the B5289, a steep walk up through Great Wood on your left takes you to the rather more appreciable summit of Walla Crag, for high views over Derwent Water. This woodland often teems with red squirrels. Two miles south of Keswick, a narrow dead-end lane on the left leads up to the lovely "lost village" of Watendlath, little more than a tarn (small lake), a farm and a very modest cafe. A short way up this detour is the much-photographed outlook from the tiny picturesque Ashness Bridge, with the green mountain known as Skiddaw an imposing northern backdrop. A little further on the B5289, behind the rather Swiss-looking Lodore Hotel are the Lodore Falls - striking after rain. If you've fallen in love with Derwent Water and want to cut the circuit short, turn right at Grange (which has a useful teashop). Castle Crag, reached by a walk along the river from Grange, is less impossible to climb than it looks from some angles, and gets a choice panorama of the dale. There are many gentler but rewarding lakeside strolls from roadside car parks between here and Swinside. Back on the main circuit, the valley of Borrowdale is a romantic blend of woodland and crags; dumped into position on the left of the road by glacial action, the curious Bowder Stone is perched on its edge, with a ladder up to its top. The hamlets dotting Borrowdale have an uncomplicated charm; there's a scattering of bed and breakfast accommodation here, and Seatoller has a National Trust centre (cl winter). Of the valleys leading off, the one to Seathwaite has the distinction of being the wettest place in Britain to keep weather records. Just upstream from Seathwaite is Taylorgill Force, one of the area's most romantic waterfalls. From here the road toils up the high Honister Pass, with spectacular clear-weather views.

	On the far side, the road drops down past an active quarry into a scarcely populated valley, almost Scottish in its highland grandeur, with the little lakes of Buttermere and Crummock Water at the foot of massive, plummeting slopes. You can hire rowing boats on both lakes, and of all the lakes if you want to swim Crummock Water is probably the best. The little village of Buttermere between the two, or Gatesgarth car park, are starting points for the level but constantly interesting 3 1/2 mile stroll around Buttermere lake. The path is splendidly varied, with glorious views, plenty of safe opportunities for children to let off steam, and even a short section of tunnel. There's also a pleasant walk from the car park by Lanthwaite Wood, off the B5289 towards Loweswater at the N end; there's a pretty view from the hill above the wood. Other walks here are decidedly ambitious; undoubtedly the most popular is the ascent of Haystacks, with a rocky, compact summit - a favourite walk of the hallowed walks book writer Alfred Wainwright; less daunting is Low Bank, a little grassy ridge above Crummock Water and leading on to Rannerdale Knotts. The Bridge Inn is a useful lunch stop in the hamlet of Buttermere. From Buttermere village take the steep little back road up towards the gauntly formidable Keskadale Pass. This road is highly scenic, climbing through a range of smoothly grassy, slatey fells (contrasting with the rugged cragginess of the volcanic rocks of Borrowdale). After four miles you drop down into the stately woodlands of tranquil Newlands valley, once busy with mining activity.

	If bad weather makes the Keskadale Pass an unattractive prospect, stay on the B5289 past Buttermere. In just under 4 miles turn left for the diversion to Loweswater, where the Kirkstile Inn is a refreshment break in an idyllic spot. Back on the B5289, you pass through the gentler pastures of Lorton Vale to Cockermouth. This classic riverside country town, birthplace of Wordsworth, is quietly attractive, and increasingly worth a holiday visit, with a good wide range of places to visit. The comfortable Trout does good food. These are the pick of the places to visit here: Wordsworth House (Main St) The poet's happy childhood home, a handsome restored 18th-c town house with fine furniture, pictures by friends and contemporaries, good original panelling, and walled garden above river. Well worth a visit in its own right as well as for its Wordsworth associations, and interesting to see how different it is from the places he lived in later on. Snacks, shop; cl wknds (exc Sats July and Aug or before bank hol), and Nov-Mar; (01900) 824805; £2.80; NT. Next door the Printing House is a working print museum with a good range of historic presses and equipment; you can try out various printing methods. Disabled access; cl Sun; (01900) 824984; £2.50. Jennings Brewery Tours of traditional Castle Brewery, where the water for brewing is still drawn from the well that supplied the Castle at the time of the Norman Conquest. Shop; tours 11 am and 2 pm wkdys Mar-Oct (plus maybe 12.30 pm in summer hols), and 11 am and 2 pm Sat Apr-Sept - booking advisable; (01900) 823214; £3. No children under 12. Cockermouth Motor Museum next door has a good changing range of vehicles, audio visual displays, and a model race track for children. Snacks, shop, disabled access; cl Jan and winter wkdys; (01900) 824448; £3. Castle House Gallery (Castlegate) Friendly lived-in Georgian house opp castle, with walled garden, Adam ceiling and sales of paintings and crafts. Cl Thurs, Sun, and all Jan and Feb; (01900) 822149; free. Toy and Model Museum (Market Pl) Good expanding collection of mainly British toys from the this century; shop, ltd disabled access; cl Dec and Jan exc by appointment; (01900) 827606; £2.40. Lakeland Sheep and Wool Centre* (off A5086 slightly S) Entertaining live show starring 19 different species of sheep and maybe a few geese; they demonstrate shearing and sheepdog trials, and an adjacent exhibition is a good introduction to the area. Show times 10.30, noon, 2pm, and 3.30; no shows Mon or Tues from Easter-mid Nov; meals, snacks, shop, disabled access; cl 25 Dec; show £3, exhibitions free. From Cockermouth the A66 is a fast road back to Keswick, passing the quiet waters of Bassenthwaite Lake - a gentler more lowland feel than the other lakes. Recommended places to stay for this route:* Keswick and Derwent Water Shu-le-Crow, 7 Penrith Rd, Keswick CA12 4HF (017687) 75253 £38; 3 attractive rms. Pink-washed, no smoking 18th-c cottage with plenty of original features, cheerful owners who can advise on local walks, and super breakfasts (vegetarian options); plenty of places to eat nearby; no children. Stakis Lodore, Derwent Water, Keswick CA12 5UX (017687) 77285 £116, plus special breaks; 75 well equipped rms. Long-standing but well updated big holiday hotel with lots of facilities in 40 acres of lakeside gardens and woodlands, open fires in comfortable day rooms, elegant restaurant, leisure club, tennis and squash, outdoor swimming pool, games room and lots for children such as nursery with NNEB nannies, remote control cars, Sega computer games, babysitting, baby-listening service, high tea; spacious s/c house too. Swinside Lodge, Newlands, Keswick CA12 5UE (017687) 72948 £88, plus special breaks; 7 comfortable rms. Victorian hotel in own grounds surrounded by wonderful unspoilt scenery at foot of Cat Bells, and few minutes from shores of Derwent Water, with hearty breakfasts and super home-made evening meals in candelit dining room, helpful friendly service, and two relaxing sitting rooms; cl end Nov-beg Feb; children over 12. Borrowdale Seatoller House, Borrowdale, Keswick CA12 5XN (017687) 77218 £58; 9 spotless, comfortable rms. Friendly house-party atmosphere in 17th-c house that has been a guesthouse for over 100 yrs, with self-service drinks and board games in comfortable lounges (no TV), and good no-choice fixed-time hearty dinner (not Tues) served at two big oak tables; packed lunches; two acres of grounds and many walks from doorstep as house is at the foot of Honister Pass; cl Nov-Mar; children over 5. Buttermere* Bridge Hotel, Buttermere, Cockermouth, CA13 9UZ (017687) 70252 £96, plus special breaks; 22 rms. Comfortable hotel surrounded by some of the best steep countryside in the county, with beamed bar (the flagstoned part is popular with walkers), log fire and deep armchairs in sitting room, good food in bar and no smoking restaurant, real ales, decent malt whiskies, and friendly atmosphere; s/c also. Towards Cockermouth* New House Farm, Lorton, Cockermouth CA13 9UU (01900) 85404 £70, plus special breaks; 4 rms with wonderful hillside views. Friendly no smoking 17th-c house (not a working farm) in 15 acres of grounds with beams and rafters, flagstones, open fires, and two residents' lounges, very good food inc game and fish caught by owner, home-made scones and preserves, a thoughtful wine list - and lots of walks; children over 12. Low Hall, Bradlingill, Cockermouth CA11 0RE (01900) 826654 £60; 3 pleasant rms. Beautifully sited partly 17th-c farmhouse below Whinlatter Pass and close to Cockermouth, with big peaceful garden, log fire and books in lounges, and super farmhouse breakfasts inc 20 different teas, home-made oatcakes, muesli, and preserves; no smoking; children over 10.
	Overview Tour 1 - Wordsworth's Lake District Tour 2 - The Northern Lakes Tour 3 - Beatrix Potter Country Tour 4 - Lakeland's Western Secrets