Wordsworth's Lake District, The Lake District (Tour 1) - The Good Guide to Travel Itineraries in Britain


UK	/	US


UK	/	US


Tour 1 - WORDSWORTH'S LAKE DISTRICT Lakeland's most beautiful landscapes are concentrated thickly around the central area, especially around Ambleside and Windermere. Both places are quite intensively developed for visitors and very busy indeed in summer. This part really comes into its own at quieter times of year - you need a degree of peace and quiet to enjoy the beauty of the delicious central area between Windermere and Grasmere.

	Grasmere: A literary shrine to Wordsworth. The pretty village swarms with visitors in summer, most of them here to see Dove Cottage - still much as Wordsworth had it in his most creative years (he completed The Prelude here), with sister Dorothy's Journals and his extensive cottage garden. Informative guided tours cope well with the bustle; in early morning (opens 9.30) out of season you may get some space to yourself. The place always was crowded; barely big enough for two, with the poets' children and friends it often had a dozen or more people living here. The adjoining Wordsworth Museum, included in the price, has changing exhibitions and possessions of the poet and his family and friends, as well as a reconstructed Lakeland kitchen. Meals, snacks, shop; cl last 3 weeks Jan and 1st week Feb, 24-26 Dec; (015394) 35544; £4.40. Wordsworth is buried in the graveyard of the robust old church, which has quite an unusual interior. Sarah Nelsons gingerbread shop by the church is wonderfully old-fashioned. The Travellers Rest (A591) is our current pick for lunch. The lake itself, with Rydal Water and Elter Water, is the very heart of picturesque Lakeland. All three are famous for their lovely settings, and there are pleasant walks all around; you can even link all three together in a long afternoon's walk filled with glorious views. The walk up the good track to Easedale Tarn from Grasmere takes you into a fine valley; the lake itself is romantically set below rocks.

	A very few minutes' drive north on the A591 is Thirlmere, a beautifully set lake beneath the slopes of Helvellyn. It was enlarged into a reservoir, not without controversy, in the 19th c. Ruskin and Morris were among those who protested in vain against what the Manchester Corporation did to this spot; the end result, sheltered by thickly planted slopes of conifers, is slightly sterile but undoubtedly pretty, with the scene best enjoyed from the quieter road on the west side of the lake (where there's also an intermittent path along the shore if you fancy a stroll). On the east side looms Helvellyn, one of the Lake District's four 3,000-foot peaks; it's most easily climbed from this side, although the longer approach from Ullswater up the glacier-sculpted Striding Edge is more dramatic. A short optional detour from the north end of the lake is the pretty drive along the B5322 to the attractive village of Threlkeld; on the way there's a very photogenic view of Clough Head from the Brigham/Keswick side road turning off just before you pass the gates of Yew Tree Farm.

	Back on the A591, just south of Keswick follow the brown sign off right to Castlerigg Stone Circle, an ancient enigma above Derwent Water. This ring of 38 stones surrounds a rectangle of 10 more in a field high above Derwent Water, with a breathtaking view of fells extending from Grisedale Pike to Helvellyn. Like other circles laid out in late Neolithic/early Bronze Age times, whatever ceremonial or ritual significance it had is lost for ever. The best times for pictures are morning and evening); take a map to identify the peaks it aligns with. The site is owned by the National Trust, and there's a brief explanation of the stones' history.

	Continue on to the A66, turning right towards Penrith. A good lunch stop is the White Horse at Scales, up a slip road on your left. Three miles after the White Horse, turn right on the A5091 towards Windermere. At the junction with the A592 turn left and almost immediately find on your left the car park for Aira Force. This idyllic Lakeland beauty spot centres on a plunging waterfall, and is almost a place of pilgrimage for lovers of Wordsworth's poetry. From the car park (£1.20 parking charge; restaurant and shop), walk up to the bridge over the slender fall of water, where the Aira Beck makes a sudden plunge in this little wooded ravine. The waterfall is at its best after rain or on a misty morning. On a fine day, though, it's well worth walking a bit further. The path out of the woodland heads along the base of the hill known as Gowbarrow Park - where Wordsworth famously wandered lonely as a cloud and saw "a crowd, a host, of golden daffodils". The path rises above the gothick folly of Lyulph's Tower to a modest summit for a magnificent view over Ullswater.

	Leaving the car park, turn right on the A592 (towards Windermere). The road runs alongside Ullswater - scenic perfection, which approaches the grandeur of Scottish lochs. On the lake at Glendridding is a pier for elegant Victorian steamers converted to diesel (disabled access; out of service Dec-Mar), plying the length of the lake, whose sinuous form reveals a wonderful series of vistas. [Optional walk: leave the steamer at Howtown Pier and walk back along the eastern shore, for outstanding views with a rewarding combination of waterside stretches and higher ground - from which to see more sweeping vistas. On the best and most popular stretch, Howtown-Patterdale-Glendridding, you will meet quite a few other people in summer. The charmingly old-fashioned Howtown Hotel is a good break in a stunning setting, and Hallin Fell nearby gives an aerial view of the lake]. At Glendridding, instead of the steamer you can hire rowing and other boats from Tindals (017684) 82393; around £5 per hr, motorboats around £10. Above Glendridding, the abandoned workings of the Greenside silver and lead mine lie up the valley, beyond rows of former miners' cottages, towards the base of Helvellyn.

	Drive south along the A592, climbing the Kirkstone Pass - usually one of the first main roads to close in winter snows. All the way are great craggy views. Nine miles south of Glenridding, on the far side of the pass, fork left to Troutbeck, a delightful settlement of ancient farms strung along a steep valley. One of these, Townend, is the perfectly preserved home of a comfortably off, very traditional farming family who lived here for 300 years till the 1940s, the house showing little change over all that time. It's well worth a visit, for the insight it gives into the way the independent Lakelanders used to live. Solid simple unshowy comfort, and a sensible, down-to-earth and entirely self-sufficient layout. This is one of several such beautifully placed "statesmen's" farms making up this lovely village strung along the steep valley below high fells. Cl am, all day Mon (exc bank hols) and Sat, and Nov-Mar; (015394) 32628; £2.80; NT. A little further south on the A592 is Holehird, the Lakeland Horticultural Society's hillside garden - five acres of well grown plants in wide variety, inc National Collections of hydrangeas and some other families; lovely views. Open all year, but manned in summer only; (015394) 46008; donations (they rely on these to maintain the gardens). A good way to end the day is a drink at the Queens Head in Troutbeck.
	Recommended places to stay for this route: In and around Grasmere Michael's Nook, Grasmere, Ambleside LA22 9RP (015394) 35496 £170 inc dinner, plus winter breaks; 14 lovely rms. Beautifully furnished hotel with fine antiques, paintings and rugs (the owner is a former antique dealer), lovely flowers, comfortable sofas by open fires in cosy bar or elegant drawing room, excellent food, landscaped garden with specimen rhododendrons, and good walks; also, great danes and exotic cats; free use of indoor pool and health facilities at nearby Wordsworth Hotel (under the same ownership, and listed below); children by arrangement but no under-7s in evening restaurant. Swan, Grasmere, Ambleside LA22 9RF (015394) 35551 £78; 36 rms, most with fine views. Smart and friendly 17th-c hotel in beautiful fell-foot surroundings, with beams and inglenooks, elegant no smoking dining room, and attractive garden; lovely walks; partial disabled access. Wordsworth Hotel, Grasmere, Ambleside LA22 9SW (015394) 35592 £179, plus special breaks; 37 comfortable, pretty rms. Well run hotel, right in village next to the churchyard where Wordsworth is buried; stylish lounges and airy restaurant overlooking landscaped gardens, a relaxed conservatory and popular pubby bar, friendly service, enjoyable food, and heated indoor pool, mini-gym, and sauna; good disabled access. White Moss House, Rydal Water, Grasmere, Ambleside LA22 9SE (015394) 35295 £144 inc dinner, plus special breaks; 7 thoughtfully furnished rms in main house plus separate cottage let as one unit with 2 rms. Bought by Wordsworth for his son, this attractive stripped-stone country house - set in charming mature grounds overlooking lake - has a comfortable lounge, fine no-choice 5-course meals in pretty no smoking dining room and excellent wine list; free use of hotel rowing boat, free fishing and free use of local leisure club; cl Dec-Feb; not suitable for toddlers. Thirlmere Dale Head Hall, Thirlmere, Keswick CA12 4TN (017687) 72478 £80, plus special breaks; 9 pretty rms, most with lake views. Peaceful partly 16th-c country house in lovely lakeside grounds, with comfortable lounges, log fire, friendly owners, and home-cooked food using produce grown in own walled garden; children over 10 for evening meals; cl Jan. Ullswater* Sharrow Bay, Pooley Bridge, Penrith CA10 2LZ (017684) 86301 £290 inc dinner; 26 lovely rms with antiques, books, and games, mostly with own bthrm. Country-house hotel in quiet idyllic spot by Ullswater with lovely views of lake and mountains, showing the years of loving care the owners have put into the distinctive style, furnishings and decor; unobtrusively attentive service and excellent English cooking in the two contrasting dining rooms; cl Dec-late Feb; no children. Leeming House, Watermillock, Ullswater, Penrith CA11 0JJ (017684) 86622 £160, plus special breaks; 40 cosseting rms, many with beautiful views. Well run extended hotel in 20 acres of quiet lakeside grounds, with log fires in comfortable lounges, cosy panelled bar, fine food in lovely no smoking dining room, and good courteous service; boating and fishing; high teas for young children; good provision for disabled. Old Church, Watermillock, Penrith CA11 0JN (017684) 86204 £85, plus special breaks; 10 rms, some with lovely Ullswater view. Attractive 18th-c Lakeland house peacefully situated in waterside gardens, with log fires and individual furnishings in civilised day rooms, kind service, and excellent English dinners at 8 pm in no smoking dining room; rowing/windsurfing boats; cl Dec-Feb. Rampsbeck Country House Watermillock, Ullswater, Penrith CA11 0LP (017684) 86442 £116; 21 rms. Run by friendly helpful people, this 18th-c hotel is set in 18 acres by Ullswater, and has an open fire in the cosy sitting room, French windows into the garden from the plush, comfortable lounge, and carefully prepared food in the attractive dining room; croquet; lots to do nearby; cl Jan-mid-Feb; children over 8 in evening restaurant. Troutbeck Mortal Man, Troutbeck, Windermere LA22 3PL (015394) 33193 £122 inc dinner; 14 rms. Spotlessly kept relaxing inn surrounded by marvellous scenery, with partly panelled bustling bar, big open fire, dark beams, picture windows in restaurant, well kept real ales, good food, lovely breakfasts, and friendly staff; cl mid Nov-mid Feb; children over 5. Around Ambleside Rothay Manor, Rothay Bridge (Coniston Rd), Ambleside LA22 0EH (015394) 33605 £170 inc dinner, plus special breaks; 18 attractive rms, many overlooking garden. Family-run Regency-style country house in neatly kept mature grounds, with log fires and fresh flowers in quietly civilised comfortable day rooms, very good English food in no smoking dining room, a thoughtful wine list, super big breakfasts, and helpful friendly service; windsurfing/waterskiing etc close by, free use of nearby leisure club; cl beg Jan-beg Feb; good disabled access. Rowanfield Country House, Kirkstone Rd, Ambleside LA22 9ET (015394) 33686 £60, plus special breaks. 7 rms. Charming carefully restored Lakeland house looking across lake Windermere to distant hills, with a woodburner in the comfortable and attractively furnished sitting room, enjoyable interesting food at 7pm in the flagstoned and candlelit dining room (bring your own wine), super breakfasts, and friendly owners; cl mid-Nov-Mar but open Christmas and New Year; children over 8. Wateredge, Borrans Rd LA22 0EP (015394) 32332 £104, plus special breaks; 22 good, comfortable rms. Beautifully placed warmly welcoming hotel with neat gardens running down to Lake Windermere (embarkation point for cruising the lake), light airy lounges, good meals in cosy beamed no smoking dining room, and excellent service; cl mid Dec-mid Jan; children over 7; dogs by prior arrangement. Windermere Linthwaite House, Crook Rd, Bowness-on-Windermere, Windermere LA23 3JA (015394) 88600 £130, plus special breaks; 18 individually decorated rms, some with lake views. Stunningly set Lakeland house in 14 acres of immaculate gardens overlooking Lake Windermere, and with their own tarn fishing; comfortable, stylish furnishings in engaging day rooms, an easy-going atmosphere, very good service, and most enjoyable modern British cooking in cosy candlelit restaurant; croquet, putting, golf practice hole; children over 7 in evening restaurant; disabled access. Fir Trees, Lake Rd, Windermere LA23 2EQ (015394) 42272 *£56; 8 attractive spotless rms inc 2 big family ones. Well run and comfortable no smoking Victorian house with an informal relaxed atmosphere, antiques, fine prints and fresh flowers, warmly helpful service (detailed suggestions of what to do), and good hearty breakfasts. Holbeck Ghyll Country House, Holbeck Lane, Windermere LA23 1LU (015394) 32375 £170 inc dinner, plus special breaks; 20 individual rms with fresh flowers and complimentary sherry and many with fine views - 6 in new building (could be s/c). Charming and warmly friendly country house in mature landscaped gardens and five acres of woodland overlooking Lake Windermere, with tennis court, putting green, and croquet - their labradors like to walk with you; immaculate comfortable lounges with antiques and panelling, log fires, billiard room, and very good food (vegetarian too) and wine in oak-panelled restaurant; health spa; children over 8 in evening restaurant; disabled access. Langdale Chase, Windermere LA23 1LW (015394) 32201 £130; 29 rms, many with marvellous lake view. Welcoming family-run hotel in lovely position on the edge of Lake Windermere with water-skiing and bathing from the hotel jetty; tennis, croquet, putting and rowing, afternoon tea on the terraces, gracious oak-panelled rooms with antiques, paintings, fresh flowers, open fires, very good food (huge breakfasts, too), and friendly service; disabled access. Miller Howe, Rayrigg Rd, Windermere LA23 1EY (015394) 42536 from £160 inc dinner, plus special breaks; 12 comfortable, well equipped rms, many with fine views. Splendid immaculately kept Edwardian country house set high over the lake with unbeatable views from day rooms, conservatory and sloping garden, excellent evening meals, a remarkably wide-ranging New World wine list with helpful tasting notes, and super breakfasts; children over 8; cl Jan.
	Overview Tour 1 - Wordsworth's Lake District Tour 2 - The Northern Lakes Tour 3 - Beatrix Potter Country Tour 4 - Lakeland's Western Secrets